Opera House
A friend of mine in Canada’s daughter—Marianne Jensen—is working and living in Copenhagen, Denmark.
Just before I arrived here, I asked for some advice about some of the traditional and not so traditional sites to see over the two days. Here are some of the spots she suggested. Thanks Marianne for all your help.
To do
Rent a bike. In dry weather – there is no better way to see Copenhagen. Voted the most bike friendly city in the world – with wide bike lanes on every street in the city – there’s no need for helmet or nerves. Just keep to the right unless you’re passing, and in the same direction as the motor traffic. It’s a big, big part of living here – the biking – so not only will you see more, but the ride itself is part of the local experience. Keep in mind that distances are much, much shorter – what looks on the map to be many kilometers away is really only 4-5 minutes. So don’t worry about getting lost – it’s not a long backtrack. And almost anyone you ask will speak English and be happy to help you. Try and take a little ride around the lakes (there are four man-made lakes in the middle of the city – you’ll see them on the map as four rectangular lakes in a row). Great for jogging and a coffee from the café up at the Østerbrogade end.
Starting at the cruise ship (if you’re walking), you can walk along the water (Langelinie) towards the city – seeing along the way:
Kastellet (the fort)
The Little Mermaid
Amalienborg (the queen’s castle) – which, from the centre, offers a view of both Marmorkirken (dome church) and the new Opera House.
Continue along the water towards the new Playhouse (Skuespilhuset) and have a coffee on the deck (from which you can see, on the opposite side, the Danish Architecture School, the Opera House, etc.).
From there head down to Nyhavn (where it is a must to have a beer) – sit at one of the tables, or do what the locals do and buy a beer from a corner shop ahead of time and sit along the edge. Friday afternoons are packed with a great mix of locals starting their weekend, as well as tourists (any hint of sunshine and Nyhavn will be full).
Consider hopping on one of the tour boats that start in Nyhavn (highly recommended) – as they’ll show you the Black Diamond (the new royal library), Christianshavn (another historic part of the city), show you where Hans Christian Andersen lived (in Nyhavn), the Opera House, theatres, etc. It’s a very good tour, and only takes about an hour.
Take the metro from Kongens Nytorv (city centre, near the Magasin department store) to Christianshavn. Or better yet – walk from Kongens Nytorv, through the small streets to Gammel Strand, then past the Parliament, and over the bridge towards Christianshavn.
In Christianshavn, find Vor Frelsers Kirke (dark church with a gold spiral staircase around the outside). It’s an amazing walk up and a great great view of the city. There are not too many tourists here as it’s away from city centre.
If you’re up for it afterwards, and are curious – take a walk through Christania. It’s something of a special place – not for everyone – but an interesting micro community of free-living people in the middle of an otherwise fast paced, forward moving, highly educated, tax paying society. There are few places like it anywhere else in Europe.
If you’re on a bike – head out to Amager Standpark. It's a massive man-made beach area completed recently on what was previous underutilized industrial land. Thousands frequent this fantastic beach/park in the summer time.
If you’re interested in architecture – go to the Ørestad part of Amager (next to Amagerfælled – park). Some of the architecture out here - the VM Bjerget (mountain) and VM Huset - are something quite different from the traditional quaintness of Copenhagen, but very representative of some of the new architecture movements underway here towards more sustainable building. VM Bjerget has won two prizes for best residential building in the world. The architect just turned 30. If you take the metro, get off at Bella Centre.
Also worth seeing:
Danish Design Centre - http://www.ddc.dk/ HC Andersens Boulevard 27
Rundetårn - http://www.rundetaarn.dk/ - on Koebmagergade 52a, the pedestrian street – interesting architecture, and great view at the top.
Places to eat
**Told og Snaps - http://www.toldogsnaps.dk/ Toldbodgade 2 (not a long walk from where you’re docked with the cruise ship) - this place is a must for Danish open face sandwiches (smørrebrod), a little snaps (let the waitress recommend) and a beer – very Danish, very delicious. Open face sandwiches are a lunch food, so the restaurant (located in a cellar just off Nyhavn) is open 11:30 to 16:00.
Amalie - very near Amalienborg – Danish food, again: open until 16:00.
Café Dan Turell - on a cozy side street. Nice Copenhagen atmosphere, and they make some brilliant little dishes for dinner. http://www.visitcopenhagen.com/content/tourist/eat_drink_and_shop/cafes_bars_and_nightlife/bar?RestaurantId=4751
Nørrebro Bryghus – local brewery and restaurant – fantastic food, beer and atmosphere. They’ll serve beers to match the food.
Café Quote – on Kongens Nytorv (city centre ring) – charming place, lovely food.
Day trips
Louisiana Art Museum in Humlebæk – a quick 45-minute train trip outside of the city http://www.louisiana.dk/dk
Helsingør – to see Hamlets Castle – sweet little town as well http://www.visithelsingor.dk/ENGELSK/mainmenu.html
Dragør – a small fishing village in the Amager part of Copenhagen – you can take the bus out there in no time, and is a nice walking tour (you will see Øresunds Bridge to Sweden from here).
Otherwise check out http://www.visitcopenhagen.com/tourist/what_to_see_and_do/tours_&_excursions/day_trips_outside_copenhagen
If it’s pouring – you could seek shelter:
Statens Museum for Kunst (National Art Museum) – amazing old/new space, fantastic collection, fresh café http://www.smk.dk/smk.nsf/docs/forside!opendocument – in walking distance.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek – (across from the Danish Design Centre) also art, but quite varied, with a great café http://www.glyptoteket.dk/
Or go for a sauna/swim at DGI-Byen near the main train station http://www.dgi-byen.com/ - they give great sauna lessons (yes, sauna lessons) at 4 p.m., 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. Mon-Thurs. Tour walking takes a lot out of a person after all.
Back with you tomorrow.
Phil